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Bunnahabhain Darach Ur Review

Jul 012012

Bunnahabhain Darach Ur

46.3% abv

Score: 79.5/100

Darach Ur. Gaelic for ‘New Oak’. Yep…it sure is. Holy hell. You want tasting notes? Ok. Oak…oak…oak…vanilla…oak.

Seriously though…oak and vanilla. Poached pear and rose petals. Ginger and grapefruit. Bourbon and pepper. And oak. This is not exciting. With the brilliant strides Bunnahabhain have taken with the recent re-releases of the 12, 18 and 25, I came in to this one with higher expectations than were perhaps fair. Either way…

Much more happening on the palate than the nose. But wham! what an arrival. Like being hit in the mouth with a whisky-soaked 2×4. Malt-soaked white fruits and ginger candy. Toothpicks and barley. Perhaps the faintest echo (perhaps) of smoke.

Ok…Bunna’s folks have claimed malts aged up to 20 years in here. Really? These must have been measured in thimblefuls. This certainly doesn’t present like a whisky with much age to its credit, but…hey…I’ve been fooled before.

I believe you can only find this in Duty Free or at the distillery. Don’t sweat it. Do rush out and give Bunna your money…just make sure you’re getting something like the standard 18 y.o. in return.

- Reviewed by: Curt

- Photo: Piers

Bunnahabhain 8 y.o. MacPhail’s Collection Review

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May 242012

Bunnahabhain 8 y.o. MacPhail’s Collection

43% abv

Score: 78/100

What the hell have we here? One of the oddest Bunnahabhains I’ve ever encountered, to be sure. If you told me this was a Lowlander I’d believe you. If you handed this to me blind and suggested it was an Islay malt, I’d likely look for the men with the butterfly nets. This in and of itself kinda speaks volumes as to the footprint Bunnahabhain leaves. The distillery’s reputation is almost a non-reputation. Shame, really. Bunna releases some damn fine whiskies. Especially in recent years under the ownership of Burn Stewart.

Here, of course, we’re not speaking of a Burn Stewart release, but instead of an independent bottling by Gordon & MacPhail. A freakishly young one at that. Eight years old and absolutely no pretense of playing ‘grown up’. I sort of dig it though. It’s neat to try such a young naked Bunnahabhain.

This one is lively and light. The oak is still screaming like mad at this age. Vanilla is skipping along hand in hand, as to be expected from such a young dram still obviously under the influence of a very vocal cask. Spiced bread dough straight from an old country kitchen. Rather typical Bunnahabhain pear. Floral notes, ginger, pepper and cinnamon. Finally…salt water taffee.

Thin and decidedly lacking any real personality on the palate. Not bad, but…just not much to speak of. Oak and tart green fruit. Again…I would never peg this as a Bunnahabhain.

To be honest…a little too little of anything special going on to really sink your teeth into and love. But I do rather like it anyway.

- Reviewed by: Curt

- Photo: Curt

Bunnahabhain 30 y.o. Old Malt Cask Review

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May 242012

Bunnahabhain 30 y.o. Old Malt Cask

50% abv

Score: 91/100

1978-2009 in wood. One of 566 bottles.

This is the oldest Bunnahabhain I’ve tried to date. Interestingly enough, the profile is almost exactly what I would expect from an old Bunna. It’s almost uncanny, especially considering this is an independent release.

Admittedly I have a bit of a soft spot for Bunnahabhain. On an island renowned for its peat and smoke monsters, Bunnahabhain is the soft-spoken gentle giant. Quiet of tread, yet decidedly assured. This immediately endears me to a malt that stands on its own merit, and not on the back of a profile that just so happens to tickle my tastebuds (that of beefy peat and billowy smoke).

This old Islay gent gives us a nose of stewed fruits and a wee bit of smoke. Some creamy caramel and sweet old sherry notes. Mincemeat tarts and dry rye bread. Rich liqueur-soaked pears. ‘Age’, as much as that is actually a flavor note in and of itself. This borders on being a beautiful nose, really something special, but in the end only toes the line.

On the palate…a little skunky. Bitterness blocks the fruits that are bouncing around and trying desperately to peek over it’s shoulder. Not nearly as sweet as the nose hints at. Sharp dates and currants. Still good, but sadly…a letdown.

I think locally this retailed for about $200CA. Absolutely worthwhile.

- Reviewed by: Curt

- Photo: Curt

Bunnahabhain 18 y.o. Review

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May 172012

Bunnahabhain 18 y.o.

46.3% abv

Score: 93/100

No beating around the bush.

I adore this whisky. Where the old Bunna 18 seemed somehow flat and lifeless, this is vibrant and sparkling. It is not only incredibly relevant, but a welcome addition to the Islay malt stable, something I think Bunnahabhain has struggled with in recent years. Most whisky drinkers, when asked about Islay malts, will wax poetic about Ardbeg, Laphroaig or Lagavulin. Others may think of the rebellious Bruichladdich or fledgling Kilchoman. Not many immediately think of Bunnahabhain, the island’s most lightly-peated offering.

Bunnahabhain has never been bad, it has simply been overshadowed and under-hyped. My personal approach to Bunna was that if I was going to spend money on an unpeated (or lightly peated) whisky, there were far better ‘bang-for-your-buck’ drams on the market. Bunna has kicked that approach out the window with its recent facelift.

Here is the 18 year old expression, non-chill-filtered, and bottled at a perfectly suited 46.3% abv.

Though I believe all whiskies should be served up in this manner, it holds particularly true for the older vintages, which need the oomph of a higher alcohol content to let all of those sexy flavor notes and subtle complexities carry a little more heft. Bunna 18 is a prime example of this theory. Older than it’s years and just starting to show that waxy age, this is a malt that is unquestionably Islay, but unmistakeably unique.

The nose is smoke and sherry. Ashy peat. Pear and sweet banana cream. Some sort of orchard fruit. Honey and vanilla. Stunning interplay at work here.

First sips…

Wow, what a mouthful. You can feel the oily tentacles exploring every oral crevice. This is a gooey, chewy malt full of smoke, sherried honey oak and a complex tapestry of spritely fruits. This is maturity and youthful zest in perfect harmony. Kinda like a mix tape (showing my age here) with the odd classic sprinkled in amongst a hatful of new indie bands.

The finish is thick and solid and lingers. Lovely.

There is something quirky and odd about this one. Something akin to a distinguished old man wandering the halls of a nursing home with his ass hanging out the back of his dressing gown. Bearing both age and zip, this Lazarus act is one of the whisky sphere’s greatest miracles in recent years.

- Reviewed by: Curt

- Photo: Curt